Move over Rio, Colombia’s coastal queen knows how to throw a proper bash. While Brazil might claim the world’s biggest carnival, Barranquilla’s UNESCO-recognised spectacular packs enough colour, chaos and cumbia to make even the most seasoned party-goer’s head spin.
Four days before Ash Wednesday, this bustling port city transforms into Colombia’s party central, though like any good host, Barranquilla gives you a proper warm-up. Pre-carnival events kick off weeks before, with neighbourhood parties testing your dancing stamina for the main event.
When visiting Colombia for this iconic event you’ll quickly learn the festival’s battle cry – “¡Quien lo vive es quien lo goza!” (Those who live it are those who enjoy it!) – which you’ll hear approximately 3,467 times during carnival, and by day two, you’ll be shouting it yourself, probably while covered in foam and sporting a marimonda mask!
Barranquilla Carnival: World’s Second-Biggest Party
Crowning Glory: The Carnival Queen
At the heart of these festivities reigns the Carnival Queen, a tradition as old as the celebration itself. Selected months in advance, she’s not just a figurehead but the carnival’s living spirit.
The coronation ceremony, held the Thursday before carnival, turns Barranquilla into a glittering spectacle of lights, music, and dance.
The Queen’s duties go far beyond waving from floats. She leads the carnival’s opening ceremony with the ‘Reading of the Decree’, a humorous presidential-style speech that officially permits four days of complete celebration.
Throughout the festival, she appears at over 30 events, each time in a different handmade dress that tells stories of Colombian culture through intricate designs and symbolism.
The Main Events
La Batalla de Flores (Battle of Flowers) kicks everything off on Saturday with a six-hour parade that makes your local carnival look like a school sports day.
Elaborate floats, traditional dance groups, and the carnival queen and her court turn the city’s Via 40 into a river of sequins and feathers.
Sunday brings the Gran Parada de Tradición y Folclor, showcasing traditional Colombian dance and music. Think cumbia, mapalé, and garabato performances that’ll make your hips take on a life of their own.
Monday’s Gran Parada de Comparsas features modern dance groups and contemporary takes on carnival traditions. By now, you’re probably expert enough to join in – or at least fake it convincingly.
Tuesday ends everything with a bang at the symbolic funeral of Joselito Carnaval, representing the death of the carnival spirit. It’s like a massive fancy-dress wake where everyone pretends to mourn while secretly still partying.
Characters You Need to Know
The Marimonda, with its long-nosed mask and floppy-eared hat, is Barranquilla’s most iconic carnival character. Created by poor locals mocking the rich, it’s now everyone’s favourite costume – expect to see thousands of these cheeky characters roaming the streets.
Best part? It’s probably the easiest costume to dance in, which you’ll appreciate around hour six of non-stop movement.
El Garabato represents the dance of death and life, with performers dressed as elegant mortals battling against dancers dressed as death itself. It’s deeper than your average carnival performance, but still involves plenty of hip-shaking.
The Congo, another traditional character, rocks colourful military-style uniforms and brings the African heritage of the Caribbean coast to life.
Carnival Survival Tips
Stay Hydrated
Hydration isn’t just a suggestion – it’s vital to surviving all four days. The Caribbean coast doesn’t mess about with its heat, and dancing for hours requires more than just cerveza (though there’s plenty of that too). Make sure to alternate every cerveza with water, or you’ll miss half the carnival taking recovery naps.
Dress Code: Anything Goes
While elaborate costumes rule the parades, street parties are more relaxed. Just remember three things:
- Wear something you don’t mind getting covered in foam or paint
- Choose comfortable shoes as you’ll likely be dancing for hours
- Bring a change of clothes – trust us on this one
Where to Watch
Palcos (long benches) along Via 40 offer the best parade views, but book well in advance – these spots sell out faster than arepas at breakfast time.
Street level puts you right in the action, though be prepared for foam fights and impromptu dance-offs. For a more local experience, find a spot near Carrera 44 – it’s where many dance groups practice their routines before joining the main parade.
The Local Touch
While tourists flock to the main parades, locals know the real party happens in the neighbourhood events. Casa de Carnaval hosts traditional performances year-round and becomes carnival central during the festivities.
Look out for ‘verbenas’ – street parties that pop up in different neighbourhoods each night, offering the most authentic carnival experience you’ll find.
Food Fuel
You’ll need proper sustenance for this marathon of merriment. Try arepa de huevo (egg-stuffed corn cakes) for breakfast, and keep your energy up with fritanga (mixed fried goods) throughout the day.
Street vendors become your best friends during carnival. Don’t miss butifarra (local sausage) and caribañolas (yuca fritters) – they’re practically carnival food groups in themselves.
Making It Happen
Book accommodation months in advance as Barranquilla fills up faster than a salsa club on Saturday night. Consider staying in nearby Santa Marta or Cartagena if you’re too late for local hotels.
Many locals rent out rooms during carnival, offering a chance to experience true Colombian hospitality (and maybe learn some dance moves from your hosts).
The Morning After
Every good party needs a recovery plan. Locals swear by sancocho (traditional soup) for curing carnival excesses. Find a local restaurant, order a bowl, and start planning your return for next year.
If you’re really struggling, head to Bocas de Ceniza where the Magdalena River meets the Caribbean as the sea breeze does wonders for carnival fatigue.
Remember, Barranquilla Carnival isn’t just South America’s second-biggest party, it’s a UNESCO Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. That’s just a fancy way of saying it’s a really, really good time that also happens to be culturally significant.
They say no one really understands Barranquilla Carnival until they’ve experienced it themselves. By the end of your four-day adventure, you’ll be covered in foam, full of street food, speaking a mix of Spanish and dance moves, and already planning your costume for next year. Because as the locals say, those who live it are those who enjoy it. And trust us, you’ll enjoy every colourful, chaotic moment.
So pack your dancing shoes, practice your cumbia steps, and prepare for four days that’ll make your New Year’s Eve celebrations look like a quiet night in. Just remember: ¡Quien lo vive es quien lo goza!
